Straddling the border between Pakistan and China, to the north-west of the Greater Himalaya, is the Karakoram, one of the most exciting trekking areas in the world. It is here, that you will find the highest concentration of mountains over 7000m anywhere on earth. Karakoram treks provide a remarkable variety of scenery from narrow wooded alpine valleys, vast arid wastelands, long rubble covered glaciers and stunning snow-covered peaks.

Despite it's wealth of magnificent scenery, Pakistan's Karakoram mountains attract relatively few trekkers. That's because the area is so inaccessible and trekking in Pakistan is more demanding than in countries such as Nepal. Any trek involves having all the supplies and equipment to be completely self-sufficient if need be. The fact that Pakistan and India, bitter enemies by tradition, are lobbing artillery shells nearby, doesn't help either.

By far the most popular trek in Pakistan is the long and demanding trek along the Braldu Valley and Baltoro Glacier to Concordia, a huge natural amphitheatre where the mighty Baltoro Glacier is joined by its tributaries, the Vigné and Godwin Austen glaciers. Surrounding these huge expanses of ice are some of the highest peaks in the world, including K2 (8611m), the world's second highest mountain. It's an awe-inspiring site.

"No mountain scene has impressed me more deeply", Eric Shipton

Starting point for the trek is Skardu, the administrative centre and largest town of Baltistan. To get to Skardu, you can either board an airplane in Islamabad, or make an exhilarating 24-hour journey on the Karakoram Highway (KKH). Opened in 1982, the KKH is the world's highest public highway, twisting its way through three great mountain ranges - the Himalaya, Karakoram and Hindukush.

From Skardu a jeep ride through the wheat fields and apricot orchards of the Shigar Valley leads to the road-head at Askole, a traditional Balti mountain village surrounded by green irrigated fields. The trek from Askole to Concordia takes around eight days, not including rest days. Instead of doubling all the way back to Askole, it has become popular to trek out of Concordia over the Gondogoro La pass (5550m) into the beautiful Hushe Valley.

Since the trek to Concordia, 'the world's greatest amphitheatre', is in a so-called restricted zone it requires a permit and a registered guide. In practice it is only possible to obtain a permit trough a recognised trekking agency. This trek in the summer holidays of 2000 (July - August) was organised by Hauser Exkursionen, Germany, and led by German tour guide Bernd Schreckenbach and two English-speaking Hunza guides.