Nepal has been a magnet for mountaineers, adventurers and travellers ever since its opening to foreigners in the 1950's. For good reason. It's a country of friendly people, spectacular natural beauty and a fascinating variety of cultures. About one-thirds of the total length of the Great Himalaya is contained within Nepal's borders, including eight of the world's fourteen 8000m peaks.
"The country is wild and mountainous, and is little frequented by strangers, whose visits the king discourages", Marco Polo
The two most popular trekking areas in Nepal are the Annapurna region, north of Pokhara, and the Solu Khumbu or Everest region in eastern Nepal. In these areas it's possible to operate with a bare minimum of equipment and rely on lodges for food and shelter. In 1998 (October-November) I spent two months in the small Himalayan kingdom trekking in both areas.
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Nepal's most popular long-distance trek (16-21 days). The route follows two river valleys, the Marsyandi and Kali Gandaki, crossing between them over the Thorung La pass (5416m). The trek passes trough a tremendous range of ecological zones from sub-tropical to alpine. It is also culturally diverse. Traditional starting point for the trek is Dumre (Besisahar).
For this trek, I joined a small group of trekking enthusiasts from Germany. Most of the people in the group had been in Nepal before and had already fallen in love with the country and the people. I came to visit the small Himalayan Kingdom for the first time. The trek was organised by Hauser Exkursionen, Germany, and led by two English-speaking Sherpa guides.
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The attractions of the Solu Khumbu region are the majestic mountains, the high mountain villages, the isolated monasteries, and the local peoples. Many people are primarily drawn to the Khumbu by a desire to spot Everest, the world's highest mountain, but Everest is only one of a myriad of beautiful peaks in the area and there are many other attractions.
The Gokyo Valley is particularly beautiful and offers incredible potential for exploration and high-altitude walking. It has the advantage of being less crowded with trekkers. From Gokyo Ri, above Gokyo kharka, four 8000m peaks are visible at once: Cho Oyu, Everest, Lhotse and Makalu. One of the most spectacular views in the Solu Khumbu.
I was planning to trek all by myself, but eventually, I decided to hire a local guide. It turned out to be Nima Tendi Sherpa. He was my travelling companion in the Solu Khumbu for almost three weeks. Nima was a relatively young but experienced and reliable guide. We had a great time together. I hope he's doing well.
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